Leopold Ott has been cooking at the Ca d’Oro restaurant in the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski in St. Moritz since 2022. This year, Leopold and his brigade cooked their way to another Michelin star for Ca d’Oro and were awarded 17 points by GaultMillau. In an interview with the talented chef, we talked about the cuisine at Ca d’Oro and he told us what it takes to be successful in the kitchen.
Leopold Ott, you have been Head Chef at the Ca d’Oro gourmet restaurant at the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski since December 2022. Can you briefly tell us about your career, what were your positions up until then? You were also previously in the kitchen at the Kempinski St. Moritz.
My career began in 1999 when I started my training at the hotel management school in Vienna at Judenplatz. I then travelled to various establishments in Vienna and Salzburg. In 2010, I travelled to Switzerland for the first time, to the Kempinski. I then travelled briefly to Austria again before moving on to the Lenkerhof and finally to Arosa in Tschuggen at la Vetta (now la Brezza). I then settled down at Castello del Sole for the summer in 2018 and was looking for a job for the winter. So I returned to the Ca d’Oro from 2018 to 2020 and then took a detour to Suvretta Hous as Executive Sou Chef for Mr Zanetti. I’ve been back at the Ca d’Oro since 2022.
Where does your passion for cooking come from?
(laughs) For me, it’s more of a coincidence and less romantic than for most other chefs. I didn’t know what I wanted to do when I was 13 or 14. My goal was actually to become a professional footballer. Unfortunately, it didn’t quite work out (laughs). I was left empty-handed, because I wasn’t necessarily talented with my hands and I also lacked interest. I’ve always found cooking exciting. My grandmother was a chef and at some point my mum had the idea that I should go to hotel management school, because then several doors would be open to me. I actually discovered my passion – the heat and the stress in the kitchen were the deciding factors.
So you need this feeling of stress to function well?
The stress was the spark that ignited the whole thing. I need the stress and the team dynamic, just like in football, where goals are achieved as a team, and it’s the same in the kitchen. Today, however, I can say that cooking is my absolute passion.
What kind of dishes can guests expect at Ca d’Oro?
The name is Italian, but the restaurant no longer has much to do with Italian cuisine. The classic à la carte dishes are classically French with a modern twist. The tasting menu combines experimental approaches with my Austrian roots and is designed to surprise guests.
How do you create your new dishes? At some point, you can’t reinvent the wheel, but you still have to keep offering your guests new dishes.
I often find my inspiration while doing sport. During this time, new ideas arise in my head, which I later discuss with my team. The creative process always starts with the individual components and ingredients, which gradually develop into entire dishes. I love trying out controversial combinations – ones that you wouldn’t expect to harmonise at first glance. It’s often about experimenting: I test different components, combine them and sometimes great creations emerge from this. Of course, I also get inspired when I visit restaurants myself or read cookery books. However, it is important not to copy, but to implement the inspiration in my own way.
In gourmet restaurants, you are often used to having one or two menus to choose from. You cook à la carte at Ca d’Oro and Locanda Barbarossa. Why, isn’t that a much bigger effort?
The effort is definitely greater. You can see a slight change: guests today don’t want to sit in a restaurant for as long and prefer two courses rather than an extensive menu of six or eight courses. In two-star restaurants, for example, there is often only one menu, which is why guests rarely come more than twice a year – they already know the menu. With the à la carte menu, on the other hand, there is much more choice, which encourages guests to come back more often, perhaps even three or four times. We have succeeded in doing this at Ca d’Oro, and as a result we have been able to attract more guests who now visit our restaurant on a regular basis.
The Ca d’Oro has been awarded 17 points by GaultMillau and has a Michelin star. What do these awards mean to you and are you aiming for 19 points and another Michelin star?
Patience is an important issue. Of course we are aiming for 18 points, but I am someone who tries to work very sensibly and economically. When I came to Ca d’Oro as the new head chef in 2022, we started from scratch. We got another star and 17 points straight away, which was an incredible achievement. Of course I’m delighted and the next goal is two stars and 18 GaultMillau points.
What is your signature dish?
‘Veal heart à la Tafelspitz’ was the signature dish last winter.
What is your favourite dish?
My mum’s original paprika chicken (laughs).
Describe the Ca d’Oro in three words:
Flavour, entertainment and craftsmanship (and fast, because the guests don’t want to sit for too long)
What advice would you give young talents who want to start a career as a chef?
Patience, patience, patience. Fortunately, I realised early on that you need time, patience and perseverance. In this industry, you shouldn’t really focus too much on your salary until you’re 30. It’s much more important to learn as much as possible – note everything down, take photos, document – and give yourself time to make progress without rushing. That’s the only way to really create something. I don’t think you can expect someone to make all the right decisions at the age of 22. You have to make mistakes first, and lots of them. Mistakes are important because they bring experience – and that takes patience. Unfortunately, the world simply moves too fast these days.
